Thursday, June 21, 2012

Delightful Krakow proves to be the ideal base for Hodgson and his stars

By Nick Metcalfe

Could it be Krakow wot done it?

No, I haven't had a funny turn. I realise that some impressive decisions made by new manager Roy Hodgson have been a factor in England's resurgence at Euro 2012.

Not to mention the superb performances of captain Steven Gerrard. Yes, that Danny Welbeck backheel helped, too. Oh, and that fifth or sixth official that didn't think the ball crossed the line. 

There are many reasons why England are heading to Kiev on Sunday for a quarter-final showdown with the Italians, and not a one-way flight back to Luton. 
On the move: Captain Steven Gerrard leaves The Stary; England's base for the Championships
On the move: Captain Steven Gerrard leaves The Stary; England's base for the Championships

But I suspect it's done them no harm whatsoever to be based in beautiful Krakow. 

This place is enough to lift anyone's spirits, with its calm serenity, its sense of grandeur, and its many wonderful historic sights. While walking round the town's ancient streets, I've caught myself chuckling a couple of times, finding it rather amusing that the England team are staying here. It just seems incongruous in a way. 

Krakow is a place of school trips, dozens of them every day.It's a place that feels spiritual, which is not surprising when you consider Pope John Paul was the Bishop of Krakow not so long ago. You regularly see nuns go about their business, and I can't recall seeing so many dog collars outside Rome.
All smiles: Hodgson and co have seemingly enjoyed their stay in Krakow
All smiles: Hodgson and co have seemingly enjoyed their stay in Krakow
The town is postcard perfect in its centre, with an imposing castle, dozens of churches, and  splendid parks. It's a place where you can't escape the past, too.

Like some of the England players and Hodgson, I visited Auschwitz, the notorious concentration camp near the city where the Nazis systemically murdered more than a million people during the Second World War.

It's not an experience that you can quickly forget. Many of the older locals have been scarred by both the war years and long decades of Communist rule.

I was fascinated to visit Nowa Huta, a purpose built socialist town in the east of the city that does a very decent job of illustrating the Communist era. There's an obvious resilience about the Poles. But there's a fierce pride, too. They want to show off their city.
Humbled: A number of England players visited Auschwitz before the tournament
Humbled: A number of England players visited Auschwitz before the tournament

England have played their group matches hundreds of miles away in Ukraine, flying in and out for every match. It's a pattern they will follow for the clash with Italy.

When these plans were first being made, they seemed ludicrous. If England had been based in Kiev for example, the logistics would have become a lot simpler. But when you spend time in Krakow, you can see why Hodgson and co have spoken so warmly about their base. 

Their hotel The Stary is right on a corner of the sumptuous main square. It is often a hive of activity, with fans happy to wait patiently outside for a glimpse of the players. 

There were a few shouts of excitement one evening as I walked past. Camera phones were suddenly held aloft to record the moment. Chelsea defender Ashley Cole made his way out of the hotel and scurried into a waiting car, probably heading off for dinner. I was standing next to a group of young lads from Newcastle. 'I'd rather have seen Cheryl to be honest', says one of them, obviously underwhelmed.
Picture perfect: Cole poses for a snap with some fans in Krakow
Picture perfect: Cole poses for a snap with some fans in Krakow

When I look at the barriers and extensive security outside the hotel, I can't help but smile and think of the England that used to be.

For one reason or another, I often recall a match against East Germany at the old Wembley in September 1984. Bryan Robson volleyed a superb late winner in front of a crowd of less than 24,000. In those days, they made sure fans sat opposite the camera to give the impression a half decent crowd had shown up.

That was the England that became familiar to me when growing up, a million miles away from the hype and hoopla that accompanies the national team these days. 

But times move on, and I do detect some pride among the locals that England have chosen to spend their time here, staying in the centre of town and training at the home of nearby Hutnik Krakow.
Getting arty: The England team enjoy a reception at the Polish Art Museum
Getting arty: The England team enjoy a reception at the Polish Art Museum
Part of this pride probably emanates from the fact that the city isn't being used for games in this tournament. I've been one of those that does find that puzzling. There's obviously some politics at play. Perhaps it was felt that Krakow, the country's No 1 tourist destination, didn't need to be sold to a wider audience. 

Whatever the reasons, England have been quite a big deal in the city. The Dutch were also based in Krakow, but not right in the centre, and the Italians are here too, but it seems to be England that are pure box office these days. Once again, the power of the Premier League is there for all to see. 

The FA promised before the tournament that England players would be good tourists, clearly aware of past public relations fiascos. 
This is Krakow: A number of England fans enjoy a kickabout in the main square
This is Krakow: A number of England fans enjoy a kickabout in the main square

'I saw Joe Hart and a couple of the other lads walking around', an Irish chap tells me in a city centre bar. 'Theo Walcott was in the main square the other day,' says another man. It seems these England players haven't just locked themselves away during this event. The contrast from their hideaway at Rustenburg during the World Cup in South Africa two years ago couldn't be starker. 

'How could the players not be inspired by this?', asked a friend as we looked up to the dreamy spires of St. Mary's Basilica one night. I couldn't have put it better myself.

Krakow is a glorious place, and I'm sorry to be leaving. England usually go home before me, but not this time. I think being here can only have enhanced their chances. 


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